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How do Koreans eat perilla leaves?

Common applications of perilla leaves include use in stews, as wraps for meat and rice, and pickled into banchan (side dish). Kkaennip cuts through the richness of food well, providing a welcome counterbalance to heartier dishes.

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The fragrant, slightly acerbic nature of perilla leaves is an acquired taste even for some Koreans – it took me years to come around to its one-of-a-kind aroma and essence. It’s hard to pinpoint the exact flavor profile of these greens, but Maangchi notes that the taste of kkaennip is “somewhere between that of basil and mint.” Common applications of perilla leaves include use in stews, as wraps for meat and rice, and pickled into banchan (side dish). Kkaennip cuts through the richness of food well, providing a welcome counterbalance to heartier dishes. And because they are relatively easy to grow, many people – including my grandma — add perilla leaves to their home garden assortment. Speaking of my grandma — she makes incredible pickled perilla leaves, a banchan called kkaennip jangajji. The leaves are layered with a savory, spicy marinade studded with toasted sesame seeds and diced green onions, and once softened, are sublime eaten atop fresh white rice. The great thing about banchan is that they can be laid out and eaten with whatever is for lunch or dinner — I’ve definitely enjoyed perilla leaves with frozen pizza and creamy pasta. The hit of acidity adds a refreshing antidote to an otherwise one-note-rich meal. When I moved back to New York City after moving home during the pandemic, and saw perilla leaves at H Mart, I knew I had to recreate my grandma’s jangajji banchan, if only to indulge in recent nostalgia. It was strangely empowering to land on my own version of this side dish, like putting together pieces of a puzzle I didn’t know I could solve. My grandma’s perilla leaves will always reign supreme — she has no recipe and does it all by familiar taste — but this is a small way of bringing a piece of home to my Brooklyn apartment and paying homage to her culinary prowess. After all, imitation is the highest form of flattery.

Recipe

Kkaennip Jangajji (Marinated Perilla Leaves)

Yields 20-25 leaves

Ingredients

20-25 perilla leaves, washed and patted dry

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon green onion, diced

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon soy sauce

2 3/4 teaspoons honey

2 3/4 teaspoons mirin

1 teaspoon rice vinegar or Korean apple vinegar

1 teaspoon gochujang (Korean red chile paste)

1 teaspoon gochugaru (Korean red chile pepper flakes)

3/4 teaspoon garlic, minced

Fish sauce, to taste

Directions

Combine all ingredients, minus the perilla leaves, in a small bowl. Taste and adjust as needed. Spoon a small amount of the sauce on the bottom of a shallow airtight container. Place 2-3 perilla leaves on top, followed by another spoonful of the sauce. Spread the sauce over the entire leaf if possible. Continue layering with 2-3 leaves at a time, finishing with some sauce on top. Allow perilla leaves to marinate for a few hours before consuming with rice or as a side dish. Perilla leaves will keep in the refrigerator for about 1 week. Read more about cooking with leaves, and explore career training in plant-based cooking at ICE.

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Why is perilla called beefsteak?

It's called beefsteak plant because the darkest varieties are as red as steak. It's called rattlesnake weed because of the rattling of the dried seed capsules.

Description

Beefsteak plant is a nonnative, invasive species that should not be planted or allowed to spread. It is a branching, herbaceous annual that can be green, deep purple, or various shades in between. Purplish plants look something like garden coleus. Flowers are small, white or light purple, in elongated, spikelike clusters to 6 inches long, arising from leaf axils, with each flower on a short stalk subtended by a tiny leaflike bract. The calyx has 5 pointed lobes; the corolla has 5 rounded lobes. Blooms August-October. Leaves are opposite, on long stems, large, soft, ovate to oblong, coarsely toothed, the upper surface indented with veins, the lower surface with raised veins. Foliage is green or shades of purplish brown, highly aromatic.

Stems are lightly hairy, 4-angled, often purplish even on green plants.

Similar species: The many types of garden coleus tend to have leaves with rounded, not sharp teeth, with usually green or yellow banding or other marks on the leaves. Coleus leaves and stems tend to be thicker, and the flowers are different, too. Coleus rarely escapes cultivation.

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